Plain language, honest answers.
A short, useful guide to diamonds, metals and ring sizing - written by a GIA Graduate Gemologist and a Master Goldsmith. No jargon, no upsells.
The 4Cs, explained simply.
Cut, Colour, Clarity, Carat. Together they describe a diamond - but they are not all created equal. Cut matters most.
Cut is the only one of the 4Cs created by human hands, and the one we weigh most heavily. Even a flawless, colourless diamond will look dull if it's cut poorly. We prefer Excellent or Ideal cut grades from GIA - this is where a diamond truly comes alive.
Graded D (completely colourless) through Z (light yellow). For white-metal settings (platinum, white gold) we typically recommend D - G. For yellow or rose gold settings, H - J grades face up beautifully and offer significant value without any visible warmth.
Tiny inclusions form naturally as a diamond grows. Grades run from FL (flawless) to I3 (eye-visible inclusions). VS1, VS2 and SI1 are our sweet spot - inclusions invisible to the naked eye, at meaningfully better value than VVS or FL.
One carat equals 0.20 grams. Carat is weight, not visual size - a well-cut 0.90 carat stone often looks larger than a poorly-cut 1.10. Common 'magic sizes' (0.50, 0.70, 1.00, 1.50, 2.00 ct) carry a price premium. Buying just under can deliver striking value.
Nine shapes, nine very different feelings.
Shape is the silhouette of the stone. Cut is the quality of its facets. The two are often confused - they are not the same thing.
58 facets engineered for maximum light return. The most studied, most predictable, and most timeless of all cuts - and the most expensive per carat because it wastes the most rough.
Reads larger than a round of the same weight and elongates the finger. Watch for the bow-tie - a darker band across the centre that the best cuts minimise.
A square or slightly rectangular cut with rounded corners. Crushed-ice and chunky-facet styles give very different looks - we'll show you both side by side.
Long parallel facets create a hall-of-mirrors effect rather than sparkle. Demands higher clarity (VS2 or better) because the open facets reveal everything.
A brilliant-faceted square cut. Excellent light return at a lower price per carat than round. Settings must protect the pointed corners, which are the most vulnerable part of the stone.
Cropped corners and a brilliant facet pattern. Wears tough, faces up large, and pairs beautifully with hidden halos and east-west settings.
A round on one end, a marquise point on the other. Orientation matters - traditionally worn with the point toward the fingertip. A V-prong protects the tip.
An elongated oval ending in two points. Faces up larger than almost any other shape at the same weight. Symmetry and a clean centre are everything.
Essentially a pear with a cleft. Symmetry is non-negotiable - the two lobes must be identical. Best above 1.00 ct, where the shape reads clearly from across a room.
Choosing a shape is personal. In a private appointment we'll set loose stones of different shapes side by side at the same carat weight - the difference, in person, is striking.
What we work in, and why.
Every KHOJA piece is hand-built in one of five metals. Each has its own character, durability, and aftercare.
95% pure platinum, naturally white, hypoallergenic, and the densest of the precious metals. It develops a soft patina with wear that many clients love. Our first recommendation for engagement rings meant to be worn every day for life.
75% pure gold alloyed with white metals and finished with a rhodium plating to give a bright, mirror-white surface. Re-plating every few years keeps it looking new. Lighter on the finger and on the wallet than platinum.
79% pure gold alloyed for a naturally bright white finish. Richer and slightly denser than 18K, it holds fine detail beautifully and is the metal our master goldsmith reaches for when a piece demands the very best. Rhodium-plated for a brilliant white surface.
75% pure gold with a deep, warm colour. Doesn't tarnish or require plating. Suits warm skin tones beautifully and pairs especially well with H - J colour diamonds and coloured stones.
75% gold alloyed with copper to give a pink hue. Slightly harder than yellow gold, it's a favourite for contemporary settings and pieces meant to feel distinctly personal.
92.5% pure silver. Our sterling line is for pieces that are worn often and easily - everyday rings, fashion pieces, gifts. We design and finish our silver to the same standard as our gold and platinum work.
Getting it right the first time.
A ring should slide on with light resistance and require a small twist to come off. These five rules help you arrive close, every time.
- 01Measure your finger at the end of the day, when it is at its largest.
- 02Warm hands measure more accurately than cold hands.
- 03If you are between two sizes, choose the larger - rings should pass over the knuckle with gentle resistance, not force.
- 04Wide bands feel tighter than narrow bands. Size up a quarter if your band is wider than 4mm.
- 05Avoid string-and-paper methods if you can - they are notoriously off by half a size or more.
Book a private appointment and we'll size you precisely on a professional Wheatsheaf gauge. Long-distance clients can request a complimentary ring sizer mailed anywhere in the world.
A piece worth keeping is a piece worth caring for.
Warm water, mild dish soap, soft toothbrush. Pat dry with a lint-free cloth. Avoid chlorine, bleach, and household chemicals.
Complimentary cleaning, polishing, prong-tightening and inspection at either atelier - for life.
Annually for a professional inspection, or any time a stone feels loose. Better to catch it early than to lose it.
The best education is a conversation.
Bring your questions, your inspirations, or your heirloom. We'll sit with you, in person or virtually, and help you make a decision you'll never second-guess.